Naxos 2001
March 29th, 2002 by freddie96
The beauty of Greece
Stretched out like a lazy cat on my sunflower yellow bed, seductive tones skimming the peach air, I run crystal memories of pure happiness through my mind. Those fragile moments when all the elements are in pure harmony, when the senses are stimulated and sated, when every doorway in your head swings wide open, when, should you die there and then, you would have a smile in your eyes. I have been lucky enough to have a few such moments. They are the moments that make my heart sing.
Say to the still earth: I flow. Say to the rapid water: I am.
Let me share with you. I am eight years old and dressed in my brother’s hand-me-downs. I am freckling in the slant of light and I can smell blue flowers near my sandals. The echo of the sea mingles with the pitch of my friends. Raising my first camera to my eye, I capture the temple at Cape Sunion in a state of bliss, proud and relaxed, green billowing below, a sky so clear it is almost reflective. My loopy teacher, wonderfully fuzzy on ouzo, is sprawled on the hill relating the tale of Orpheus to the buoyant waves. Abi and Alana have petals in their hair. Mel is eating cheese. And I realise, perhaps for the first time, that I am entirely happy.
In this moment, I fall in love with Greece.
Apollo was my father and Calliope my mother. The larger part of my life I spent in words and music.
Twenty years on and I am again sitting by the windy Aegean Sea, straw hair in my eyes. My warm arms are spattered with sun-kisses, tamed over years but still vibrant. I am swaying to the tug of the breeze, the flood of the waves, the sensual pulse of the music. Under the dusk glimmer of stars, my friends murmur over the tops of beer, trading memory and desire. Over my shoulder, a camera is preserving the moment. We are all on screen, webbed forever in this bubble of beauty and wonder. The lyrics lazily narrate a passion to the slumbering moon. Leigh and Tom are admiring circles. Fred is explaining cheese. Serendipity.
You who seek to lead your mind toward the bright day, to you this tale applies.
Greece has the fortune of self-indulgence; years pass and change is slight. Like an oak tree, Greece was complete far, far beyond living recollection. Little can alter her personality. She allows herself the luxury of evolution, but only on her own terms. I can almost see the gods, sitting high on Olympus some millennia ago, looking down at their olive green creation, dusting off their hands and smiling at each other over a job well done. But those gods, unlike our own, had one endearing charm – they were endlessly, mischievously flawed. Nothing in Greece can be predicted, nothing expected. She is wilful, capricious, a confident adult with a childlike edge, always inviting you to laugh along. Greece is not perfect despite her imperfections. She is perfect because of them.
And on this island Theseus abandoned Ariadne because she was beloved of Dionysus.
The Cycladean hills roll away. A miniature sparrow hops from foot to foot, balancing bravery and flight. The taverna cats, co-existing quite happily, flirt unashamedly for fish. We are drinking wine out of a red clay jug, shooting the breeze, avoiding the late afternoon sun. Soon it will be time for a splash in the glistening sea, or maybe a snooze by the hypnotic pool. Today is not a day for ruins. Tomorrow, maybe.
Of bodies changed to various forms, I sing.
There is a beauty to Greece that renders all things beautiful. It is a culture dedicated, by nature, to art. The song runs strong through Greece. Around every corner, paused with energy, there is a muse, a goddess, a hero, a monster with a story to tell and a song to sing. The Ancient Greeks believed that power resided in expression, and express they did. It was a world in which the perfect note, the perfect sentence, the perfect vision could transform lives. Orpheus quelled the underworld and brought his nymph back to life with his lyre and his passion. And, true to Greek form, oh those difficult gods, he lost her again. He can still be heard looking for her, if you listen closely, in the sigh of the leaves on balmy Greek nights.
They sailed over the sea and on the way stopped to rest on the lovely island of Naxos. This, as it happened, was especially dear to Dionysus; and there he and the satyrs were feasting and making merry at this time. Dionysus saw Ariadne as she wandered through the leafy woods and fell in love with her wild beauty.
The satyrs are dancing to the dawn. The girl who twirls like the wind, palms upstretched, laughs. The boy who makes the light play is embracing the girl who cries at beauty. He who conceives and she who creates are holding hands. The kitten who flops, flops. I watch. We are tired but happy, so happy. We are living the myth.
So he cast her into a magic sleep, as he so easily could by turning a stream into wine; and when she awoke she remembered nothing about Theseus, nor how she came to Naxos, but willingly became the bride of Dionysus.
The night draws to an end. The stars doze. The moon winks its departure and retreats. Only the music continues, naturally, the breeze through the trees, the hum of the sea. Under white sheets our pasts pan out ahead of us, our futures just behind. There is no boundary between sleep and wake, our dream blurs its own boundaries. Above us the gods shake their heads like indulgent parents, tucking us in under a blanket of calm. The sun is rising on Naxos.
The pipe beside my plashing stream will cause sleep to drop upon your lids as you are cast under the magic spell.
Greek magic is so real it can be touched, smelled, seen, tasted, heard. It is not a pervasive magic, it does not pull rabbits out of hats or eggs from ears. It drifts. At those moments, the magic is the final ingredient that creates the explosion from pleasure to the sublime. It is the factor that urges people to explore the new terrain of themselves, fall in love, discover new beginnings, live the past, distil a moment of truth. The Ancient Greeks did not believe in endings. Every conclusion was a yet another doorway, every departure a journey. Memories were not intangibles in a dusty box, they were a living part of the narrative, the odyssey. It is Greek magic that brings it all to life, mixing past and present moments like a kaleidoscope. It is why Greece is never just an ancient tale. It is why I will always be that happy, dippy child on Greek shores. It is why I return, on grey days, to find her, restful in soft waters, olive branches outstretched, delighting in her continuity, nurturing her magic. And my heart sings.
And there Dionysus woke in pleasure, for the morning birds were singing.
The sun is high. We wake and embrace the day.
Vicki, August 2001
[galleryurl=http://www.bigchill.net/gallery.html?id=17]Naxos 2001 photogallery[/galleryurl]










March 16th, 2009 at 9:35 pm
I don’t normally comment on blogs but your post was a real help. Thank you for a great topic, I will be sure to bookmark your site and check it out again. Cheers, Amy xXx.